by The Baker
Mango Chutney Truffle
120 grams cream
25 grams glucose
120 grams milk chocolate, chopped
150 grams dark chocolate, chopped
25 grams butter, room temperature
100 grams mango chutney, chopped
1. Heat cream and glucose in a small saucepan over medium heat. Put
both chocolates into a small bowl. When steam begins to rise from the
cream, pour mixture over the chopped chocolate.
2. Let mixture sit for 30 seconds, then stir with a rubber spatula
(do not use a whisk–you do not want to incorporate air into the
3. Add the butter, stir to combine, then fold in the chutney. Cover
the mixture with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature overnight.
4. Form the ganache into balls (easiest method is to use a small ice cream scoop) and roll in confectioner’s sugar.
by The Baker
Goat Cheese Brownies
10 tablespoons cold goat butter, cubed
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, melted
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 ounces chèvre
1 3/4 cups sugar
4 egg yolks
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter and flour a 9×13-inch baking dish.
2. In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. In a
separate bowl, beat the butter, chèvre and sugar on medium
speed for 5 minutes.
3. Add the melted chocolate and beat to incorporate. Scrape down the
sides of the bowl and beat in the whole egg and the egg yolks one at a
time. Add the vanilla and mix to incorporate.
4. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the flour mixture. Pour into the
dish and bake for 25 minutes. Allow brownies to cool to room temperature
Michael Symon cooks with soul. Or so Michael Ruhlman famously proposes in his book The Soul of a Chef, and so Food Network has carefully engineered his “brand” over the past years. Supposedly Symon, a Food & Wine
Best New Chef 1998 and member of the Iron Chef America cast, inflects
his food with boisterous energy that leaves little room for subtlety. He
is a gentle giant, shaven head, booming smile that shows too much
tooth. He is, to employ the cliché, larger than life. While no longer in
the kitchen at Lola every
night, his presence looms over the menu and casts a shadow across the
dimly lit dining room. Lola belongs to Symon, he possesses her, and thus
his celebrity chefhood never feels phony. Although the restaurant, much
like Symon’s television personality, feels overly tweaked, an admirable
layer of authenticity persists. If Symon himself appears absent, his
soul remains present, lending the food itself a similar degree of depth.
Cooking isn’t really about making mistakes.
In fact, as Michael Ruhlman so elegantly articulates in his book The Soul of a Chef,
cooking constitutes a journey towards perfection, a search for flawless
product and execution that never ends. American schools emphasize the
accidental and imperfect nature of science—Fleming messed up and
discovered Penicillin! And recent developments in culinary
historiography emphasize “grandmother cooking,” a certain imprecision
and willingness to err. But this seemingly American desire to revel (and
perhaps wallow) in optimistic failure conflicts with the ultimate goal
of professional cookery. Maybe this tension explains why so many
Americans are uncomfortable with European-style fine dining that focuses
on control over the minutest imperfections. Continue reading